Friday, January 30, 2015

Japan -- Land of the ...




Sydney's Drawing of Osaka Castle, rebuilt by the Tokugawa Shogunate 


Our time in Japan is wrapping up, and I must say it's been wonderful. I expected Japan to be one huge, high tech, urban metropolis.  How wrong I was! It is mainly a beautiful, verdant country with mountains and rivers, punctuated by efficient, accessible cities filled with quiet, orderly, ultra-clean people. Ok, enough of gross generalizations. 

6 days ago we began in Hiroshima, opting to skip Tokyo altogether. Our crew isn't into shopping or clubbing, so instead we took a 4.5 hour train ride west to the coast.  On the way, Mt. Fuji rose majestically, a perfectly symmetrical mammoth covered in snow. We were awestruck. Interestingly, not one Japanese person even looked out the window.

Hiroshima greeted us with cold rain which seemed fitting for such a place. As if the skies were still crying for the tragedy they witnessed. Hiroshima feels like a small town. With its quaint and inviting canals, you'd never guess what happened there, except for the bombed out, charred remains of the atom bomb dome building which still stands in ruins. I'll let Sydney's post describe Hiroshima in greater detail. She summed it up much better than I ever could.

We loved our visit to Miyajima, a precious little island with a gate that appears to be floating in the water. Deer are considered holy, so they roam freely there. We even saw one push an automatic door opener button with his nose!  Miyajima is famous for litte fresh waffle-type cakes filled with maple bean curd. They're actually quite tasty, especially when hot and crispy.

Kyoto is a big city, but it too has aspects that make it feel like a small town.  Old one-story houses with curved Japanese roofs are nestled close together. We loved the Nishiki Market, a covered shopping area with hundreds of food stalls with fresh fish, fruit, nuts, bean curd desserts, rice, chestnuts, and other treats. We sampled liberally! After some temple visits in the snow, we ran into great friends from the ship and enjoyed a fun dinner sitting on mats at the floor.

Finally, we trekked through the cold rain to a beautiful suburb of Kyoto called Arashiyama. It feels like a little ski town. My mission was for us to walk through a bamboo forest, then experience Japanese public baths, called onsen. The  bamboo forest in the freezing cold rain didn't exactly thrill my crew, and when we arrived at the onsen an hour before it opened, I thought I had a mutiny on my hands. Fortunately, we found a tiny cafe and ordered miso soup and rice to keep us going. Kerry ordered porridge with lizard, according to the waitress, but sadly, we didn't detect any lizard in the dish. 

The public baths were an experience to say the least. They are a big deal in Japan. Fortunately, they separate men and women. Then you get nekkie and bathe yourself on this little wooden stool before hopping in the baths, which are large hot tub-like pools filled with natural spring water. Some are inside, others are outside, lined with big stones with views of the mountains in the distance. You sit in silence trying not to stare at the other naked people. It's very relaxing.

Here are Austin's thoughts on the baths.

M: Austin, how was the bath?
A: It was awesome. But when we got in the first pool, everyone else moved to the second pool. When we moved to the second pool, everyone else moved to the third pool. When we moved to the third pool, everyone else moved to the first pool.
M: Why do you think people kept moving away from you?
A: Maybe because we were loud. And I also kind of broke the rule about no swimming. I sort of glided from one side of the pool to the other.
M: Charlie, did you glide too?
C: I glided.
A: Overall, it was fun but awkward. 

And then there was the monkey park. About a hundred snow monkeys with red faces and behinds roam freely on this mountain top. It's a crazy place, and I was both enthralled and terrified at the same time. You can't make eye contact with the monkeys, or they go nuts. Really. I did it. I also saw a wild monkey fight between a demon baby monkey and a bigger one. Don't mess with those guys.

No discussion of Japan would be complete without mention of the toilets.  They may be our biggest takeaway from Japan. Imagine toasty warm seats inviting you to stay a while. The sound of a forest stream bubbles and gurgles by, to remind you of a mountain hike or to prime the pump, so to speak. After relieving yourself, a jet of warm water sprays at your hind quarters. Some toilets even have a hot air dryer to finish you off. When you're done, a sink on top of the toilet washes your hands and fills the bowl for the next person. Japan, you are a clean country filled with clean people. Forget that land of the rising sun business. We've got a new slogan for you.  Japan: Land of the Clean Heinies. 


Sushi with the boys

Miyajima island 


Arashiyama bamboo forest 

Snow monkeys near Kyoto 




Crane in Kyoto

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Hiroshima


This is a paper written by my thirteen-year-old daughter, Sydney about Hiroshima.

As an American, I never gave much thought to the bomb that ended the war. I knew it had destroyed a city, but I never truly appreciated the thousands of lives lost in an instant. Even though the reasoning for dropping the bomb is sound, it does not begin to take away from the sadness of losing a city and its inhabitants. 

The atomic bomb dome -- one of the few remaining buildings that survived the blast.

The museum in Hiroshima captures the emotions impossible to express. Children stand unrecognizable, illuminated by a red glow as their skin drips from their bodies. Shadows of vaporized beings still cling to walls, forever imprinted there by the heat and ash of the bomb. But amidst the rubble and fiery remains of a once powerful and prosperous city, a new feeling glimmers. Hope.

A sickly and bedridden child named Sadako once believed that folding 1000 paper cranes would grant her one wish – the wish to live. Sadako continued to meticulously fold cranes up until the day she died. Though the cranes hadn't been enough to save one girl, it was enough to inspire a nation.  Sadako's struggle against death proved that all was not lost. A professor invited many children to document their own experiences, allowing hope to echo through their revelations. Many would go on to prosper and thrive.

The kids learn to fold a paper crane.


Today, Hiroshima is a bustling city filled with many people. Sadness still lurks deep in the hearts of many, however with the help of stories like Sadako's, it is possible to move on. Japan, the once blood-thirsty and war-loving nation, was sobered by the devastating attack on the city. They have not entered a war since. Many monuments stand tall, honoring those lost on that fateful day. Together, many come to lay paper cranes by these memorials, to show that love, and peace, and hope is the answer.




Saturday, January 24, 2015

Peanut Butter, Ping Pong, and Pub Night

So we've been at sea for almost 3 weeks now with just a 7-hour break on land in Hawaii. The waves are back up to 15 feet. It's getting cold outside, and some are going a bit stir crazy. We are all on this ship together, and sometimes there is Love Boat-esque intrigue and excitement. Little things become big things at sea.

Taco night, for instance, is a big thing. It inspires cheers from the student body and faculty alike. Even though the tacos are pseudo tacos, it doesn't matter. The shells may be a bit soggy and the green "guacamole" may bear no resemblance to its Mexican namesake, but who cares? We're eating tacos, and it puts everyone in a good mood. And taco night also had a special dessert -- fruit cobbler. Seriously, it was divine. People were practically selling their children for another serving.  I thought there might be a brawl in the cobbler line. I actually saw one woman get a 10- inch plate full of it, then return for a second plate. As one friend said, "The cobbler is not just ship good; it is life good." An important distinction.

Then there was the peanut butter scuttlebutt. They serve peanut butter every day, and there's great debate over what it actually is.  Many claim it has no relation to peanuts whatsoever.  Some say it's dehydrated nuts mixed with water.  Whatever it is, the consistency is that of mortar.  If I ever see a brick out of place, I know where to come.  

Yesterday several of us were discussing the peanut butter during lunch, and as we were walking out, I noticed that the said peanut butter looked more ... smooth.  I quickly grabbed a piece of bread and slathered some on.  I tasted it.  It was indeed smooth!  It was as creamy and overprocessed as any Skippy from the States!  I reported back to my friends, and there was great rejoicing.  Though we had just finished lunch, we all celebrated with peanut butter sandwiches on the spot.

Last night was the first night I stayed up past (dare I say it?) 9:30.  It's true.  This ship is like a giant rocking cradle, and the minute I lay down, it's curtains for me.  Anyway, last night was different.  Perhaps the delicious warm chocolate chip cookies I bought at the snack bar gave me a sugar high, but I had plenty of energy.  It's a good thing because our family entered into a ping pong tournament that started at 8:00 p.m. Charlie, the 11 year old, was up first.  He played a 6-foot-4 guy named Jake who's been playing a lot.  Jake is good.  He yelled, "Charlie, let's do it!" with great fanfare.  Charlie stepped up and proceeded to have Jake on the ropes the entire time.  Jake prevailed with a score of 21-18, but it was a great game.  He told us afterwards, "I was so excited to play a kid!  But I had no idea he'd be that good!"

Then it was payback time as Kerry played Jake's twin brother, Matt.  Kerry beat him soundly.  Next I had to play Simon, my good friend's 11-year old son.  My boys both pulled me aside ahead of time and whispered, "Hit to his backhand."  I thought, "I'm not going to exploit a child like that!"  Well, Simon was ahead from the beginning, and I was about to call it a wrap when I started winning some points.  Shocked, I kept at it until the score was 19-19.  All decorum flew out the window, and my bloodthirsty competitive spirit kicked in.  I hit it to his backhand once.  Twice. Three times. Let's just say, I'm going to the next round.

Finally, my 9-year-old Austin got up to play.  You just have to picture him.  He's so skinny and small with this crazy blond hair that is like an afro out in the sea breeze.  He was playing against a tall, brawny guy who's going into the Marines.  Austin steps up and gives him a run for him money like you've never seen.  After a few minutes, there was a huge crowd cheering for Austin.  At one point he switched paddles, and everyone started cheering even more.  The college kid prevailed, but Austin has a whole new set of fans today.  Even the dour security officer on her watch came over and patted him on the head afterwards.

Speaking of dour security officers, last night was Pub Night.  This an evening when the college kids can buy up to 3 drinks between 9-11 p.m. from the pool bar.  I, of course, have never attended Pub Night because I am always nestled in my bed at that hour, but last night I was up. As you can imagine, Semester at Sea is very careful about the college kids and alcohol.  While it's legal since we are at sea, they don't want students to abuse it, and they go to great lengths to ensure that.  They have security guards in crisp white uniforms standing guard all around the pool area.  They confiscate all backpacks and water bottles (so kids can't smuggle alcohol out.) Then they sell individual tickets for each drink, and kids cannot share the tickets. Finally they have other staff standing guard like plain clothes cops.  It's like partying in a police state.
Needless to say, things were pretty calm when we left.  

That's the Love Boat update for today.  

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Be Careful What You Wish For


"Be careful what you wish for."  So said the Croatian Captain when I told him I wanted to experience some waves.  Little did I know that a typhoon was swirling nearby -- right in the middle of our path from Hawaii to Japan. Wisely, the captain changed our course to go around it. (Semester at Sea has learned a few things since the disastrous storm they encountered off the coast of Alaska years ago.  Google it for video.)  But even though we went around it, we skirted the edge of the typhoon, and that night, we finally got the waves I was hoping for. Twenty foot seas kept us up all night, and we rose and fell as if on a carnival ride.  From time to time, the ship would crash down over the top of a wave, followed by a series of vibrations.  At breakfast the next morning, plates and drinks slid across our outdoor tables. Many of us felt queasy, and I slept it off for a few hours in the afternoon.

Strange things happen at sea.  For instance, we lost January 19th.  Not sure where it went, but we went to bed on Sunday, January 18, and woke up on Tuesday, January 20.  The international dateline seems to be the culprit, but I can't wrap my mind around it.  Another wierd, yet wonderful event at sea -- for the next three nights, we get to set our clocks back one hour.  Three 25-hour days! Things are really getting crazy now.

As you know, the NFL playoffs were last weekend.  My dad knew that we couldn't watch them at sea, and even trying to follow ESPN on the computer wouldn't work with our uber-slow online connection, so he emailed me play-by-play commentary of each of the games in almost real time. We were in the dining room where all the kids of professors and lifelong learners were homeschooling at the time, so I quietly shared the updates with another dad near me. But as the Seattle-Green Bay game heated up, pretty soon we had a whole bunch of people gathered around listening to each update.  When it got down to the last minute, we were sitting on the edge of our seats in the middle of the Pacific waiting to see if Seattle would score... and then waiting to see if GB would tie it up. The room was filled with cheers when it went into overtime!  My dad's going to put all the other tele-type play-by-play commentators right out of business! 

Now I heard that last year a generous parent paid to have the Super Bowl shown on the ship.  Everyone gathered in the Union to watch it together.  I'd love to see that happen this year.  One student in our Shipboard Family elbowed me in the ribs when discussing it.  I think he thinks ought to be that generous parent.  I'd rather just pass a hat and see if we get enough bucks.  After all, the Redskins aren't playing.

Now that the waves are calmer, I'll share some thoughts I have had along the voyage about the seas.  King David once said, "The voice of the Lord is over the waters."  David never went on Semester at Sea, but if he ever did, I'm sure he would hear God's voice out here. Rising and falling with the swells is like being in a giant dance with the Creator leading you.  Like reading a poem written with water and waves instead of words.  


Even the sky gets in on the action.  Yesterday, we saw a strange, beautiful, vertical rainbow.  As David also wrote, "The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands.  Day after day they pour forth speech." God has initiated a divine conversation with us through nature.  He is speaking loud and clear.  I am listening.


Interestingly, one thing never changes at sea. The skies change, the waves change, the colors change, the clouds change, but always, no matter what, the horizon stays the same.  It is a constant in an ever-shifting tableau.  A reminder that God is my unchanging anchor.  My horizon at sea.

5 days till sushi in Japan.

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Mail at Sea

Bonus points go out to Ellen, Rob, Charlie, and Douglas Pitera for sending a hand-colored card to us in Hawaii. And for the record, Charlie Pitera, we don't have to go to the bathroom over the edge of the deck. Thankfully.

Hawaii

On Wednesday we got an extra hour of sleep -- one advantage of sailing west. Three days before we got an extra hour too.  If I ever run for president, my platform will include turning the clocks back one hour every three days. I'll surely win.

Yesterday we saw land for the first time in almost a week. First we saw the lights on shore before the sunrise. Then I saw the shape of the Big Island of Hawaii -- solid and green in the misty morning. How welcome its form appeared! A pilot boat whizzed by my window to deliver the harbor pilot to bring us in. By 8:00 we were docked in Hilo.

Alas, we didn't get off until 10:00. That's because the U.S. Customs and Immigration service had to conduct face to face interviews with every person who wanted to disembark. We are a thorough government. 800 people later, we stepped foot on terra firma.

Seven years ago, a friend in Miami called to tell us about her friend, Shirin, who was coming to D.C.  Shirin was from Iran and was trying to get her papers to go back to her country to see her father. She didn't know how long it would take, and she didn't have a place to stay. She ended up staying with us for almost three months. In that time, Shirin became family.

So you can imagine our delight when Shirin, who lives in Hilo, met us at the dock in Hawaii with fragrant yellow leis and took us around the island for the day. We started at a black sand beach where we climbed on the volcanic rocks. Then we picked up the world's most delicious sandwiches and drove to Kilauea, the tallest volcano on earth.  From far off, we saw it smoking and belching sulfur gases. We ran through some steam vents and felt the moist heat, while getting an impromptu facial. 

After a quick trip to Target for provisions for our next 13 days crossing the Pacific, we visited a white sandy beach with lagoons and tidal pools. The kids were splashing in the cold water, spotting colorful fish, crabs, and turtles. Three giant green sea turtles swam right around their feet, munching on algae and even hissing at Charlie. They were magnificent, gentle creatures, and you can't blame them for hissing at Charlie. I probably would too if I were a turtle.

Then Charlie spotted what he thought was a snake. But as you know, there are no snakes in Hawaii. It was actually an eel! The kids named it Luigi, and  Austin shared some of his turkey sandwich with him. Luigi wasn't interested. Just then another eel named Mario, who was about 4 times bigger than Luigi, slithered out of another rock! We thought he would go for the sandwich, but instead he slid over to Luigi who darted into his rock . We never saw Luigi again.  We think this was a blatant, tragic case of eel cannibalism. As Kerry noted, "If you're an eel, another eel is the perfect meal. It just slides right down."

Finally it was time to say goodbye. We hugged Shirin, then made our way back to the ship, careful not to be late. For every 15 minutes you are late, you have to stay on the ship an extra two hours at disembarkation time in the next port. I'm told it can be quite a show watching people run back to the ship as dock time approaches.

Back to ship life until Japan...

Monday, January 12, 2015

At Home

Today was the first day I felt like I was home. Maybe it's because when I went outside, a blast of warm, moist air met me at the door.  For a Miami girl, that feels like home. Every nautical mile, we're getting closer to Hawaii. Even the water -- sometimes grey, sometimes navy -- looks brighter and more cobalt.
 
Yesterday the seas were choppier than usual. White caps rode the waves, and the wind was up. Interestingly, though, the ship didn't pitch and roll as much as when the sea was calmer but with bigger swells. 
 
I've got my sea legs now. I hardly notice the constant motion, the times we walk side to side in the halls as the ship tilts, the way we engage our core to stay straight and not spill our drinks in the dining hall. This lifestyle is becoming second nature. I keep forgetting we're going to get off the ship and visit countries!!
 
Ship life has a rhythm to it. Every morning Kerry and I work out in the tiny gym. I'm always amazed at the number of people exercising before dawn. There is a real culture of fitness on the boat.  A group of us have started a 7-minute workout by the pool in addition to our other exercise.
 
At breakfast as a reward for working out, we choose from omelets, French toast, bacon, pain au chocolate, fresh fruit, yogurt, oatmeal, bagels, and juice. We eat out on the back deck overlooking the frothy turquoise ribbon of the ship's wake. I shudder to think how we will cope with going back to cold cereal at our kitchen table.
 
After schooling in the morning, there is free time in the afternoon. Yesterday the kids made a grand discovery-- a girl from the national Ping Pong Team of Colombia is on board!!! There was great rejoicing. Maria is on a ping pong scholarship in the US. (Who knew?) Austin is overjoyed and hopes to have many ping pong clinics.
 
Last night (Sunday) we had a church service for anyone who was interested. About 10% of the students showed up. An Econ professor who is also a minister spoke. Next time they hope to have some guitars and other music.
 
At 9:00 pm, we had trivia night in the big "Union" room. About 400 students showed up. We divided into teams of 8-10 and answered trivia questions about sports, entertainment, etc. Do you know the name of Don Quixote's horse? We didn't. Do you know Taylor Swift's middle name? We didn't. Do you know the 7 seas? We missed the Arabian. Needless to say, our team (the Sailing Tacos) didn't win.
 
Today we had a student from University of Alabama help tutor Sydney and Charlie in physics because I didn't understand the chapter in their physical science book. This girl was a physics major hoping to teach high school, and she did a bang up job. Even I understood! After the kids were done, she said, "I'm from Alabama, and we say, 'Roll Tide.'"  Without missing a beat, Charlie looked at her and said, "We say, 'War Eagle.'"  That's for you, Evans Rice. :)

Day after tomorrow is Hilo, Hawaii.  First land in 6 days.  
 

Saturday, January 10, 2015

At Sea

It's 5:45 a.m., and I am awake.  The ship is rolling around in the seas.  We rock in our beds -- head to toe, head to toe.  It's fluid motion, almost like being in a giant rocking chair.  Sometimes it feels like we're on a plane coming in for a landing.  You feel the heavviness, then almost weightlessness.  If feels like the  ocean is a living, breathing being... a giant blue dragon whose back we're riding.  It's thrilling and beautiful and a bit scary all at once.

We are meeting tons of people.  Students, lifelong learners, professors.  All wonderful, interesting, intentional people.  You don't do this trip by accident.

The food is great.  Lots of fruit and veggies so far, with Indian entrees, soups, fish, even French pastries for dessert yesterday.

Working out on board is fascinating.  Running on an elliptical feels like running and riding a horse at the same time.  You let go of the handholds at your own risk!  When you do the plank exercise, it's an exercise in gravity too.  As the ship goes "down" off a swell, you feel tremenous pressure on your body.  I felt like I weighed 300 pounds.  But then, you go "up," and for a moment you're weightless!  It makes planking much more interesting!

The kids have already made friends.  Charlie played basketball yesterday till he fell into bed.  Austin is beating the professors at ping pong.  When I told Sydney I had to go to the computer lab, she said, "Oh, we have friends there!"  The kids already run the ship. I come back to their room and find them sitting around eating goldfish and listening to Taylor Swift with their friends.  It's like Happy Hour in there.

Sunrise yesterday was truly a religious experience.  I was on the elliptical machine looking out at the sea, and at 7:00 I ran outside just as the sun was peeking over the horizon, lighting the clouds in every direction.  The ocean was like glass.  You could have water skiied on it.  The sun, water, open expanse, all of it was breathtaking.  I almost wept.  I just talked to God right there at the ship's rail and worshipped.  Truly gave him my heart as I stood in awe of his majesty, beauty, and power.  I am so small.

Today began the first day of school.  We gathered in the dinig room with about 15 other families schooling our kids while the mighty Pacific rolls outside the window.  We roll too as we do math, science, history.  Not a bad schoolroom if you ask me.

So far Semester at Sea has far exceeded my expectations... and they were already pretty high!

Note: We do not get regular internet access at sea.  We have a few hours total for the whole voyage, and it's extremely slow.  If you need to contact us, this email usually works: michelle.knott.sp15@semesteratsea.org

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Here we go



 The past 2 days have been a whirlwind of excitement and fun. We explored San Diego yesterday and loved it. Met an airline pilot/surfer on the beach who gave us the grand welcome, met Bill, the sandcastle man, who builds award -winning castles, ate delicious Mexican food, and spent the evening with dear friends who drove down from Encinitas.  

Today we woke up early and went to the bus loading area with hundreds of other students, parents, and lifelong learners.  TV crews were interviewing people. If you could have bottled the energy in that place you could power the whole country! We were nervous, excited, scared, thrilled, overwhelmed, bewildered, and overjoyed all at once.

We boarded the buses and headed to the border with Mexico. 

Once in Ensenada, we boarded the ship! I almost wept with delight. We checked into our rooms and went to lunch where a seagull promptly grabbed Charlie's roll! We've already met incredible people. And  I can't wait to meet everyone else! The kids have already made friends too -- a huge answer to prayer. 

Heading to the lifeboat drill so I'll keep this short!